FEATURED AUGUST 2008 GUEST: Majka Burhardt
GOOD THIEVERY
"It is good to be robbed in Ethiopia," the man says.
"It is good to be robbed?" I ask.
"Yes, in Ethiopia."
It’s four o’clock in the afternoon, and we are sitting in a block-and-mortar room in the back of a complex that houses the local jail, court, and magistrate. The windows are simple portals through the wall, with wooden shutters and steel locks. The floor is dirt, layered with barley shoots.

Sisters outside of their home in Nebelet, Ethiopia
Photo by Gabe Rogel
I sigh, and then ask, "Why is it good to be robbed in Ethiopia?"
"Where else would your possessions be returned?"
Earlier that day, I was 60 meters into a climb when I looked down and saw a young boy going through my pack. He and his friends went through the other packs as well, and made off with money, a camera, a watch, and two pairs of sunglasses.
Kristie Arend on the first ascent of Jewel in the Sand, 5.11, Tigray Ethiopia - Photo by Gabe Rogel
I recognized the boy when I walked into the jail compound 10 minutes ago. You can’t hide for long in this village, especially if you are wearing new, bright-blue sunglasses.

Majka waiting for a verdict in Megab court
Photo by Gabe Rogel
"Don’t you agree?" the officer asks. He holds out my camera.
I grasp it gratefully. It even still has my photos on the memory card.
"Yes," I say. "Definitely." I start to put the camera back in my bag.
The officer reaches over and takes the camera away from me.
"So it is yours?" he says.
"Of course."
He tucks it into a drawer. "Good."
Majka on the first ascent of Learning the Hard Way, 5.10+, Tigray, Ethiopia - Photo by Gabe Rogel
Three different times we will have the same interaction: I will identify my camera and have it taken away shortly thereafter. I will fill out forms in a language I don’t understand. I will walk by the jail cell that holds the boys who stole from us. I will be asked to identify which boy was at my pack and which boys were at the other packs.
Sitting on a wooden bench and leaning my head against the cool earthen wall, I worry about what will happen to the boys. We all worry. We have heard stories of disproportionate punishment in Africa. Who hasn’t? But we are in Megab, nine kilometers west of Hawzien. Everyone knows everyone here, and we are assured that everyone is fair.

Ethiopian Farmer at rest below Nebelet Towers.
Photo by Gabe Rogel
Eventually, our things will be returned—well, all but Caroline’s sunglasses. Somewhere in northern Ethiopia is a boy with white-enamel aviator glasses shielding his eyes from the sun.
© Majka Burhardt 2008
Vertical Ethiopia, Climbing Toward Possibility in the Horn of Africa, by Majka Burdhart:
Shama Books, 2007, page 119. |